Eastbourne & East SussexSash Windows Repairs and Renovations

Repairing and restoring sash windows in East Sussex & Eastbourne

2009-11-21T18:04:00.001Z

Most of the work we do is on homes built during the 19 & 20th centuries.
Original wooden box sash windows can, and do, last for centuries.
It is almost never the case that a box sash window needs to be completely replaced, no matter how bad they may look.
The key to these windows is the simple genius of their design and construction. They are infinitely repairable. More often than not quite minor repairs can bring them back to full functionality.
Modern, virtually invisible, draughtproofing can bring 100 year old windows up to modern performance standards.
The scope for restoration of your windows is virtually limitless.

Simple air conditioning!

2009-11-21T17:39:00.002Z

For some reason there's been spate of clients only wanting bottom sashes re-corded.

As I've said elsewhere before, to my mind it's a false economy, because when re-cording the bottom sash, the window is in bits anyway - and it would seem prudent to get both sashes working.
But what's really suprising is that many clients don't even realise that both sashes can work.
The great secret of sash windows is that they can provide the very best ventilation configuration of any window type - bar none.
A quick lesson in physics... Hot air rises... end of physics lesson.
Sash windows nearly always go all the way to the ceiling.... Hot air rises...

If you wanted to get rid of hot air, which window should you open?
Fresh cooler air comes in from below and stale warm air exits at the top...

It works because it obeys the law of physics. No great secret!
If you need your sash windows repaired renovated or restored -

give me a call on 07930 335 937 or use the email link.

Sound proofing a traditional sash window

2009-11-21T14:06:00.000Z

Contrary to populist belief, double glazing is not the best way to reduce noise - full stop.
It is just one expensive way to reduce some noise.
If traditional single glazed sash windows are the only barrier between you and the traffic you can tackle a major part of the problem by simply installing draught proofing. As well as draughts, draught proofing also reduces airborne noises which find their way through the smallest and least noticeable gaps.
The next step is to replace the glass in the sashes. There are many types of acoustic glass, available in various thicknesses, and designed to control various levels and types of noise. Developed and tested by the larger glass manufacturers (e.g. Pilkington Glass) the results are often not as impressive in real life situations as they may be on paper.
Sound insulation is probably best achieved via well fitted windows with good draught strips, laminated safety glass 4.4mm or 6.4 mm thick may not be quite as acoustically efficient as the best specialist glass but, at a fraction of the price, it will dramatically assist in an overall noise reduction plan.
For more comprehensive advice on your sash windows call me on 07930 335 937 or email me using the link on the left hand side.

New research from English Heritage renews calls for the retention of original sash windows

2009-11-21T12:00:00.003Z

I take no credit for any of the following. But this is an article on the English Heritage website that confirms what I have been saying for years to everybody and anybody who would listen to the painfully obvious. If you click here it will link you to the pdf file on their website.

For the first time in England important scientific evidence is available to counteract some of the misconceptions about the energy efficiency of original timber sash windows, a unique feature of England’s built heritage which is under threat and fast disappearing.
English Heritage has released the findings of a study into the thermal performance of traditional sash windows using a 2 x 2 timber sliding sash window dating from the 1880s which had been rescued from a skip. The results showed that even the simplest repair and basic improvements will bring significant reduction of draughts and heat loss, and that using a combination of these methods will upgrade a window to meet Building Regulations targets.
The key findings are:
1. Simple repairs to mend cracks and eliminate gaps can significantly reduce the amount of air infiltration or draughts.
On the window that was tested, air infiltration was reduced by one third.
2. Air infiltration through a sash window in good condition can be reduced by as much as 86% by adding draught proofing.
3. Heat loss through contact with the glass and frames can be significantly reduced by adopting simple measures like closing thick curtains and plain roller blinds. In the test, heat loss was reduced by 41% and 38% respectively.
4. More elaborate measures reduce heat loss even more and can improve windows to meet modern Building Regulations which target a U value for windows of 2 or below. In a test with good quality secondary glazing, this value was 1.7.
5. Well-fitted, closed shutters, also produce similarly good results.
The best result is when the two methods are used together, resulting in a 62% reduction in heat loss and a U-value of 1.6.

The research comes at a time when large swathes of public and privately owned historic buildings will be subject to refurbishment and retro-fitting to improve their energy performance in order to meet the Government’s ambitious climate change targets.
Dr Simon Thurley, Chief Executive of English Heritage, said: “It is very encouraging to see that more buildings are being refurbished to meet modern energy requirements, but all too often a drastic and insensitive approach has led to the degradation of our streetscapes . Many original timber sash windows have lasted more than two hundred years and are capable of lasting another century. This piece of research provides the hard evidence that shows how easy it is to upgrade them and supports our call for their retention.”

Chris Wood, Head of Building Conservation and Research Team at English Heritage, who commissioned the research at Glasgow Caledonian University, said: “There is a lot of misunderstanding about the potential for historic buildings to be brought up to date. We hope this research will herald serious rethinking, and help homeowners and local authorities refurbish historic buildings with the confidence that modern standards can be met without compromising historic character - whether it is individual dwellings, a local school, town hall or public library.”

Price Guide of most popular services

2009-11-20T12:32:00.002Z

Re-cord
Replacement of sash cords on either bottom sash only or both sashes.
Bottom Sash only - from £50.00 Top and bottom sashes - from £70.00

Basic Overhaul
For windows in generally good condition.
Free painted shut sashes, renovate sash pulleys for free running. replace old cords with new sash cord. Adjust weighting to suit. Replace parting beads and staff beads as necessary to ensure smooth operation. Windows will still require primer/undercoat/finish coat. From 160.00

General Overhaul and draught proofing
For windows in generally good condition. Removal of beading, sashes and weights, making minor repairs,
Replacing with new sash cord and beading machined and fitted with draught proofing. Sanding down mainly to remove flaking paint. (On a general overhaul we do not attempt to strip paint work),
Cleaning and priming with acrylic primer/under-coat. Windows will still need finished paint work.
From £190.00
Replacement Sashes
New Traditional single glazed sashes fitted into existing box frame, including general overhaul as above
From £425.00 Depending on size.

Don't screw sash window staff beads - nail them!

2009-11-16T19:27:00.003Z

Box Sash Windows are relatively simple to work on... but some people make the simple very difficult. I recently come across one such case.
To do most work on a sash window generally means first removing the staff beads.
These are usually nailed on. It's a simple process to remove the beads with a few well placed taps using a hammer and chisel, pry bar or sharks tooth.
HOWEVER...
Occasionally some nut decides that it would be better to screw them down, drive the screws below the surface, fill in the screw slots, and then apply several coats of paint over the top. How do I know this ... because I had to re-cord seven windows, and they had all been screwed down in the aforementioned idiotic manner. What should have been just a few minutes work turned into an age of mutterings and expletives and curses on the head of the previous installer.
I can only imagine that the installer had just bought his first power screwdriver and wanted to show the world how good it is.

Please, please, please, where appropriate, nail staff beads in place.